Investigating tangible and experiential design priorities for people living with chronic medical hair loss (alopecia), when acquiring, wearing, cleaning, maintaining and disposing of hair prosthesis (wigs)

  • Karena Moore-Millar

Student thesis: Doctoral Thesis

Abstract

This study concentrates on the detailed topics of ‘wig(s)’ and ‘alopecia’ collectively. Currently there is no cure for Alopecia areata (AA). However, it is responsible for 2% of dermatology clinic visits in the UK and USA, and one of the six most economicallyburdensome skin conditions; from an estimated range of 3,000. Wigs are reported as “useful in the management of AA” by the British Association of Dermatologists (BAD). Yet, there is no published evidence to suggest wigs are effective in helping people copewith AA or understanding of their efficacy as a treatment. Through a systematic literature review, the study identified a paucity of publishedinformation on each area respectively. In order to fill in these knowledge gaps, this study adopted a sequential-exploratory and multiphase design to generate and answer research questions, rather than testing a hypothesis or assumptions. The research was framed using Creswell & Plano Clark’s sequential mixed methods (2009 & 2011) and Norman’s user centred design (UCD). Firstly, conducting 2 focus groups and 14 semi-structured interviews. Identifying end users ‘priorities’ and ‘problems’ when acquiring, wearing, maintaining, and disposing of wigs. These qualitative findings informed the development of a detailed online questionnaire (n.53). In turn the numerical results were used to inform the scientific analysis of 6 popular wigs (A-F), benchmarked against virgin human hair (G) and raw polyacrylonitrile filament (H). The rigorous and comprehensive research identified a number of tangible and experiential relationships impacting on end users, including, “Durability” issues with wigswhen exposed to heat (cooking). 92% reported heat as their highest priority and problem. Fibre testing confirmed exposure to heat would intrinsically alter aesthetics of polymeric filaments due to material degradation (Ty) and irreversible damage (Tg), making fibres “noticeable’ (unrealistic) to onlookers. Remarkably, all the filaments tested had similar fibre compositions, with subtle variations in their cross sections, topographical or chemical profiles. Controversially, there is no British standard (BS) for wigs, but there is for dolls hair, meaning quality assurance of wigs is not always guaranteed. Therefore, if wigs are to be used in the management of AA a productstandard should be introduced, accounting for end users priorities and problems (UCD). This study is the first (UK) questionnaire to capture and identify wig priorities and problems for end users’ with alopecia. First to present micro and macro comparison tables for 6 commercial wigs, measured against reference samples. First to presentthermal profiling (DSC, DMA, and hotplate) and micro and macro analysis of wig filaments, including a simulation, opening an oven door. This research contributed to 5 academic publications in areas of alopecia and wigs, several public engagement workshops including an exhibition at the Glasgow Science Centre, “Body Works”. Its contributions to knowledge include: 46 design recommendations covering Manufacture, Acquiring, Wearing, Maintaining & Cleaning.22 suggestions for future research. Creation of sustainable business models for wig materials. Summary tables outlining compilation of different types of cranial alopecia and available treatments; with benefits and side-effects. Plus, detailed understanding of wigcomponents, their supply-chains, manufacture, and state-of-the-art.
Date of Award23 Feb 2022
Original languageEnglish
Awarding Institution
  • University Of Strathclyde
SponsorsUniversity of Strathclyde
SupervisorAvril Thomson (Supervisor) & Simon Shilton (Supervisor)

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