Trapping and instability of directional gravity waves in localized water currents

Bengt Eliasson, Fernando Haas

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

3 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

The influence of localized water currents on the nonlinear dynamics and stability of large amplitude, statistically distributed gravity waves is investigated theoretically and numerically by means of an evolution equation for a Wigner function governing the spectrum of waves. It is shown that water waves propagating in the opposite direction of a localized current channel can be trapped in the channel, which can lead to the amplification of the wave intensity. Under certain conditions the wave intensity can be further localized due to a self-focusing (Benjamin-Feir) instability. The localized amplification of the wave intensity may increase the probability of extreme events in the form of freak waves, which have been observed in connection with ocean currents.
LanguageEnglish
Article number063014
Number of pages7
JournalPhysical Review E
Volume89
Issue number6
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 23 Jun 2014

Fingerprint

water currents
Gravity Waves
gravity waves
Trapping
gravity wave
trapping
Water
Amplification
amplification
water
ocean currents
Extreme Events
Self-focusing
Wigner Function
water waves
water wave
Nonlinear Stability
Water Waves
self focusing
extreme event

Keywords

  • gravity waves
  • instability
  • trapping
  • localized water currents

Cite this

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abstract = "The influence of localized water currents on the nonlinear dynamics and stability of large amplitude, statistically distributed gravity waves is investigated theoretically and numerically by means of an evolution equation for a Wigner function governing the spectrum of waves. It is shown that water waves propagating in the opposite direction of a localized current channel can be trapped in the channel, which can lead to the amplification of the wave intensity. Under certain conditions the wave intensity can be further localized due to a self-focusing (Benjamin-Feir) instability. The localized amplification of the wave intensity may increase the probability of extreme events in the form of freak waves, which have been observed in connection with ocean currents.",
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Trapping and instability of directional gravity waves in localized water currents. / Eliasson, Bengt; Haas, Fernando.

In: Physical Review E, Vol. 89, No. 6, 063014, 23.06.2014.

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

TY - JOUR

T1 - Trapping and instability of directional gravity waves in localized water currents

AU - Eliasson, Bengt

AU - Haas, Fernando

PY - 2014/6/23

Y1 - 2014/6/23

N2 - The influence of localized water currents on the nonlinear dynamics and stability of large amplitude, statistically distributed gravity waves is investigated theoretically and numerically by means of an evolution equation for a Wigner function governing the spectrum of waves. It is shown that water waves propagating in the opposite direction of a localized current channel can be trapped in the channel, which can lead to the amplification of the wave intensity. Under certain conditions the wave intensity can be further localized due to a self-focusing (Benjamin-Feir) instability. The localized amplification of the wave intensity may increase the probability of extreme events in the form of freak waves, which have been observed in connection with ocean currents.

AB - The influence of localized water currents on the nonlinear dynamics and stability of large amplitude, statistically distributed gravity waves is investigated theoretically and numerically by means of an evolution equation for a Wigner function governing the spectrum of waves. It is shown that water waves propagating in the opposite direction of a localized current channel can be trapped in the channel, which can lead to the amplification of the wave intensity. Under certain conditions the wave intensity can be further localized due to a self-focusing (Benjamin-Feir) instability. The localized amplification of the wave intensity may increase the probability of extreme events in the form of freak waves, which have been observed in connection with ocean currents.

KW - gravity waves

KW - instability

KW - trapping

KW - localized water currents

UR - http://journals.aps.org/pre/

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DO - 10.1103/PhysRevE.89.063014

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