Modelling wave-current interactions off the east coast of Scotland

A. D. Sabatino, C. McCaig, R. B. O'Hara Murray, M. R. Heath

Research output: Working paperDiscussion paper

Abstract

Densely populated coastal areas of the North Sea are particularly vulnerable to severe wave conditions, which overtop or damage sea-defences leading to dangerous flooding. Around the shallow southern North Sea, where the coastal margin is low-lying and population density is high, oceanographic modelling has helped to develop forecasting systems to predict flood risk. However coastal areas of the deeper northern North Sea are also subject to regular storm damage but there has been little or no effort to develop coastal wave models for these waters. Here we present a high spatial resolution model of northeast Scottish coastal waters, simulating waves and the effect of tidal currents on wave propagation, driven by global ocean tides, far-field wave conditions, and local air pressure and wind stress. We show that the wave–current interactions and wave–wave interactions are particularly important for simulating the wave conditions close to the coast at various locations. The model can simulate the extreme conditions experienced when high (spring) tides are combined with sea-level surges and large Atlantic swell. Such a combination of extremes represents a high risk for damaging conditions along the Scottish coast.
LanguageEnglish
Place of PublicationGöttingen, Germany
Pages3099-3142
Number of pages44
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 18 Dec 2015

Fingerprint

wave-current interaction
Coastal zones
coast
Interaction
Modeling
modeling
Tide
storm damage
wave-wave interaction
ocean tide
Tides
water wave
Extremes
wave field
global ocean
Damage
tidal current
swell
wind stress
atmospheric pressure

Keywords

  • North Sea
  • wave-current interactions
  • tides
  • modelling
  • wave conditions
  • sea-level surges

Cite this

Sabatino, A. D., McCaig, C., O'Hara Murray, R. B., & Heath, M. R. (2015). Modelling wave-current interactions off the east coast of Scotland. (pp. 3099-3142). Göttingen, Germany. https://doi.org/10.5194/osd-12-3099-2015
Sabatino, A. D. ; McCaig, C. ; O'Hara Murray, R. B. ; Heath, M. R. / Modelling wave-current interactions off the east coast of Scotland. Göttingen, Germany, 2015. pp. 3099-3142
@techreport{ee60fcd620f54f8480612579ac9cf0ab,
title = "Modelling wave-current interactions off the east coast of Scotland",
abstract = "Densely populated coastal areas of the North Sea are particularly vulnerable to severe wave conditions, which overtop or damage sea-defences leading to dangerous flooding. Around the shallow southern North Sea, where the coastal margin is low-lying and population density is high, oceanographic modelling has helped to develop forecasting systems to predict flood risk. However coastal areas of the deeper northern North Sea are also subject to regular storm damage but there has been little or no effort to develop coastal wave models for these waters. Here we present a high spatial resolution model of northeast Scottish coastal waters, simulating waves and the effect of tidal currents on wave propagation, driven by global ocean tides, far-field wave conditions, and local air pressure and wind stress. We show that the wave–current interactions and wave–wave interactions are particularly important for simulating the wave conditions close to the coast at various locations. The model can simulate the extreme conditions experienced when high (spring) tides are combined with sea-level surges and large Atlantic swell. Such a combination of extremes represents a high risk for damaging conditions along the Scottish coast.",
keywords = "North Sea, wave-current interactions, tides, modelling, wave conditions, sea-level surges",
author = "Sabatino, {A. D.} and C. McCaig and {O'Hara Murray}, {R. B.} and Heath, {M. R.}",
note = "This article was published as an open online discussion paper during its review phase. On the basis of reviews received it was accepted for publication in the printed issue of the journal",
year = "2015",
month = "12",
day = "18",
doi = "10.5194/osd-12-3099-2015",
language = "English",
pages = "3099--3142",
type = "WorkingPaper",

}

Sabatino, AD, McCaig, C, O'Hara Murray, RB & Heath, MR 2015 'Modelling wave-current interactions off the east coast of Scotland' Göttingen, Germany, pp. 3099-3142. https://doi.org/10.5194/osd-12-3099-2015

Modelling wave-current interactions off the east coast of Scotland. / Sabatino, A. D.; McCaig, C.; O'Hara Murray, R. B.; Heath, M. R.

Göttingen, Germany, 2015. p. 3099-3142.

Research output: Working paperDiscussion paper

TY - UNPB

T1 - Modelling wave-current interactions off the east coast of Scotland

AU - Sabatino, A. D.

AU - McCaig, C.

AU - O'Hara Murray, R. B.

AU - Heath, M. R.

N1 - This article was published as an open online discussion paper during its review phase. On the basis of reviews received it was accepted for publication in the printed issue of the journal

PY - 2015/12/18

Y1 - 2015/12/18

N2 - Densely populated coastal areas of the North Sea are particularly vulnerable to severe wave conditions, which overtop or damage sea-defences leading to dangerous flooding. Around the shallow southern North Sea, where the coastal margin is low-lying and population density is high, oceanographic modelling has helped to develop forecasting systems to predict flood risk. However coastal areas of the deeper northern North Sea are also subject to regular storm damage but there has been little or no effort to develop coastal wave models for these waters. Here we present a high spatial resolution model of northeast Scottish coastal waters, simulating waves and the effect of tidal currents on wave propagation, driven by global ocean tides, far-field wave conditions, and local air pressure and wind stress. We show that the wave–current interactions and wave–wave interactions are particularly important for simulating the wave conditions close to the coast at various locations. The model can simulate the extreme conditions experienced when high (spring) tides are combined with sea-level surges and large Atlantic swell. Such a combination of extremes represents a high risk for damaging conditions along the Scottish coast.

AB - Densely populated coastal areas of the North Sea are particularly vulnerable to severe wave conditions, which overtop or damage sea-defences leading to dangerous flooding. Around the shallow southern North Sea, where the coastal margin is low-lying and population density is high, oceanographic modelling has helped to develop forecasting systems to predict flood risk. However coastal areas of the deeper northern North Sea are also subject to regular storm damage but there has been little or no effort to develop coastal wave models for these waters. Here we present a high spatial resolution model of northeast Scottish coastal waters, simulating waves and the effect of tidal currents on wave propagation, driven by global ocean tides, far-field wave conditions, and local air pressure and wind stress. We show that the wave–current interactions and wave–wave interactions are particularly important for simulating the wave conditions close to the coast at various locations. The model can simulate the extreme conditions experienced when high (spring) tides are combined with sea-level surges and large Atlantic swell. Such a combination of extremes represents a high risk for damaging conditions along the Scottish coast.

KW - North Sea

KW - wave-current interactions

KW - tides

KW - modelling

KW - wave conditions

KW - sea-level surges

UR - http://www.ocean-science.net/

U2 - 10.5194/osd-12-3099-2015

DO - 10.5194/osd-12-3099-2015

M3 - Discussion paper

SP - 3099

EP - 3142

BT - Modelling wave-current interactions off the east coast of Scotland

CY - Göttingen, Germany

ER -

Sabatino AD, McCaig C, O'Hara Murray RB, Heath MR. Modelling wave-current interactions off the east coast of Scotland. Göttingen, Germany. 2015 Dec 18, p. 3099-3142. https://doi.org/10.5194/osd-12-3099-2015