Modelling wave-current interactions off the east coast of Scotland

Alessandro D. Sabatino, Chris McCaig, Rory B. O'Hara Murray, Michael R. Heath

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

6 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

Densely populated coastal areas of the North Sea are particularly vulnerable to severe wave conditions, which overtop or damage sea-defences leading to dangerous flooding. Around the shallow southern North Sea, where the coastal margin is low-lying and population density is high, oceanographic modelling has helped to develop forecasting systems to predict flood risk. However coastal areas of the deeper northern North Sea are also subject to regular storm damage but there has been little or no effort to develop coastal wave models for these waters. Here we present a high spatial resolution model of northeast Scottish coastal waters, simulating waves and the effect of tidal currents on wave propagation, driven by global ocean tides, far-field wave conditions, and local air pressure and wind stress. We show that the wave- current interactions and wave-wave interactions are particularly important for simulating the wave conditions close to the coast at various locations. The model can simulate the extreme conditions experienced when high (spring) tides are combined with sea-level surges and large Atlantic swell. Such a combination of extremes represents a high risk for damaging conditions along the Scottish coast.
LanguageEnglish
Pages875-897
Number of pages23
JournalOcean Science
Volume12
Issue number4
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 5 Jul 2016

Fingerprint

wave-current interaction
coast
Interaction
Modeling
modeling
Tide
storm damage
wave-wave interaction
ocean tide
water wave
Extremes
wave field
global ocean
Damage
tidal current
swell
wind stress
atmospheric pressure
wave propagation
coastal water

Keywords

  • hydrodynamic model
  • wave
  • tide
  • current
  • surge
  • storm

Cite this

Sabatino, Alessandro D. ; McCaig, Chris ; O'Hara Murray, Rory B. ; Heath, Michael R. / Modelling wave-current interactions off the east coast of Scotland. In: Ocean Science. 2016 ; Vol. 12, No. 4. pp. 875-897.
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abstract = "Densely populated coastal areas of the North Sea are particularly vulnerable to severe wave conditions, which overtop or damage sea-defences leading to dangerous flooding. Around the shallow southern North Sea, where the coastal margin is low-lying and population density is high, oceanographic modelling has helped to develop forecasting systems to predict flood risk. However coastal areas of the deeper northern North Sea are also subject to regular storm damage but there has been little or no effort to develop coastal wave models for these waters. Here we present a high spatial resolution model of northeast Scottish coastal waters, simulating waves and the effect of tidal currents on wave propagation, driven by global ocean tides, far-field wave conditions, and local air pressure and wind stress. We show that the wave- current interactions and wave-wave interactions are particularly important for simulating the wave conditions close to the coast at various locations. The model can simulate the extreme conditions experienced when high (spring) tides are combined with sea-level surges and large Atlantic swell. Such a combination of extremes represents a high risk for damaging conditions along the Scottish coast.",
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Modelling wave-current interactions off the east coast of Scotland. / Sabatino, Alessandro D.; McCaig, Chris; O'Hara Murray, Rory B.; Heath, Michael R.

In: Ocean Science, Vol. 12, No. 4, 05.07.2016, p. 875-897.

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

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